Pepeekeo Scenic Drive: Hawaii’s Hidden Rainforest Road, Waterfalls and Garden Stops
Most visitors race up Highway 19 out of Hilo with their eyes locked on Akaka Falls or Waipio Valley, and they never know what they are missing. A few miles north of town, a small brown sign points right, off the fast highway and onto the Old Mamalahoa Highway. What follows is one of the most beautiful four miles in all of Hawaii: the Pepeekeo Scenic Drive.
This narrow, winding road is the old coastal highway, the way people traveled this coast before the modern highway bypassed it. It twists through dense rainforest, crosses mossy plantation-era bridges, and hugs the cliffs above Onomea Bay. There are no traffic lights, no fast food, no billboards. Just green on green, the sound of the ocean through the trees, and a Hawaii that feels wonderfully untouched.
If you are spending any time on the Hilo side of the Big Island, this drive deserves a slot in your day. It is short, it is easy to fit between other stops, and it delivers far more beauty per mile than almost anything else on the island.
What Is the Pepeekeo Scenic Drive?
The Pepeekeo Scenic Drive is a 4-mile stretch of the Old Mamalahoa Highway along the Hamakua Coast, just north of Hilo. It goes by several names, which can be confusing at first. Locals and guidebooks call it the Pepeekeo Scenic Drive, the Onomea Scenic Drive, the Four-Mile Scenic Route, or simply the Old Mamalahoa Highway. All of these names describe the same road.
Back when sugar was king on this coast, the Mamalahoa Highway was the main road connecting Hilo to the plantation towns to the north. When the modern Highway 19 was built with its wide lanes and bridges, the old alignment was left behind. What remains is a slow, narrow, mostly one-lane road that feels like driving through a tunnel of green.
The drive begins just north of Hilo and runs roughly between mile markers 7 and 11 on Highway 19. You can enter from either end, but most people start at the southern entrance, at the signed turn between mile markers 7 and 8, and drive north to rejoin Highway 19 at mile marker 11 near Sugar Mill Road.
The whole thing takes only about 15 to 20 minutes if you drive straight through. But nobody should drive straight through. The point of this road is to go slow, pull over often, and let the rainforest do its work on you.
The Route: Where to Get On and Off
Getting onto the scenic drive is simple. Head north from Hilo on Highway 19 toward Honokaa. Between mile markers 7 and 8, watch the right side of the road for a brown sign that reads “Scenic Drive.” Turn right onto the Old Mamalahoa Highway and you are on the route.
The northern exit comes out near mile marker 11 at Sugar Mill Road, back onto Highway 19. If you are coming south from the Hamakua Coast side, you can just as easily enter there and drive the route in reverse.
A few things to know about the road itself:
First, it is narrow. In many stretches it is effectively one lane, with occasional pullouts for passing. The standard speed is about 20 miles per hour, and that is plenty. Second, it is not a road for hurrying. Blind curves, wet pavement, and the occasional fallen branch mean you should drive with your eyes up and your foot light. Third, cell service can be spotty, so download offline maps before you go.
Parking along the route is limited. There are small turnouts and the parking area at the botanical garden. Never block the road, a bridge, or a driveway to take a photo. The locals who live along this road drive it every day, and they will appreciate your courtesy.
Stop 1: Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden
The single biggest reason most people take this drive is the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, and it is worth the trip on its own. This 40-acre garden sits in a valley that opens out to Onomea Bay, and it is one of the finest botanical gardens in the state.
The story of the garden is a good one. Dan Lutkenhouse bought the property in 1977, when it was an overgrown tangle of weeds on a steep valley wall. He spent years clearing it by hand and planting tropical species, and the garden opened to the public in 1984. It was later donated to a nonprofit trust, which runs it today.
Inside you will find more than 2,000 species of tropical plants: palms, heliconias, orchids, bromeliads, and gingers, some over a century old. A boardwalk trail winds down through the valley past streams and cascades, including the three-tiered Onomea Falls, one of the garden’s signature sights. The walk ends at the coast with ocean views across Onomea Bay.
Practical details: the garden is open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM, with no entry after 4 PM. It is closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Admission is charged for adults, with reduced rates for children. Plan one to two hours for the walk. Be aware that the boardwalk is steep in places, dropping about 100 feet in elevation, so it is not suitable for wheelchairs or anyone unsteady on stairs. Wear grippy shoes, because the boardwalk is slippery when wet, and it rains here often.
Stop 2: Onomea Bay
Onomea Bay is the wild, rocky cove at the heart of the scenic drive, and it is one of the most dramatic ocean views on the east side of the Big Island. The bay is a rough bite out of the lava cliffs, with turquoise water surging against black rock and rainforest spilling down to the water’s edge.
A short trail leads down from the road toward the shore, and the views from above are the real prize. This is a place for looking, not swimming. The currents and surf here are strong and dangerous, and there are no lifeguards, no facilities, and no safe entry points. Enjoy the bay from the shoreline and the overlooks.
The trail can be muddy and the rocks near the water are slick. Good shoes matter here. If the surf is up, keep a respectful distance from the waterline. The ocean on this coast is beautiful and completely unforgiving.
Stop 3: Waterfalls Along the Way
Waterfalls are scattered along the Hamakua Coast like punctuation marks, and the scenic drive passes right by several of them.
Six Tons Waterfalls
Near the Six Tons bridge over Kawainui Stream, a short drive or rugged walk off the scenic route leads to waterfalls that run strong after rain. The area is quiet and rarely crowded, which makes it feel like a private discovery. The water is colder than most visitors expect, and the rocks are dangerously slick. Admire the falls, skip the climbing.
Rainbow Falls
Technically in Hilo rather than on the scenic drive itself, Rainbow Falls is the natural bookend to this route. The 80-foot falls drop into a wide pool at Wailuku River State Park, and on sunny mornings a rainbow often appears in the mist. It is an easy stop with simple parking, perfect for the start or end of your drive.
Akaka Falls
A short detour north of the scenic drive brings you to Akaka Falls State Park, home to the 442-foot Akaka Falls plunging into a lush gorge. A short paved loop trail also passes the 100-foot Kahuna Falls. This is one of the most famous waterfalls in Hawaii, and it pairs perfectly with the Pepeekeo drive for a full waterfall day.
If you want to plan a bigger day of the best things to do on the Big Island, these three waterfall stops fit neatly into a single Hilo-side itinerary.
Plantation History Along the Road
The Pepeekeo Scenic Drive is not just a pretty road. It is a living piece of Hawaii’s plantation history. The Hamakua Coast was once lined with sugar plantations, and the towns along this road, Pepeekeo, Papaikou, and others, were built around the mills.
You will cross narrow plantation-era bridges covered in moss, pass old stone walls, and drive through neighborhoods where the houses and the landscape still carry the shape of the sugar era. The Pepeekeo Sugar Company mill closed decades ago, but the bones of that economy are everywhere along the route if you know to look.
This history is part of what makes the drive feel so different from the resort side of the island. This is old Hawaii, the working coast, and it has a texture and authenticity that no resort can reproduce.
How Long Does the Drive Take?
The drive itself is only 4 miles and takes about 15 to 20 minutes without stops. With stops, plan one to two hours for the road alone. Add the botanical garden, and you are looking at a half day. Add Rainbow Falls and Akaka Falls, and you have a full, satisfying day on the Hamakua Coast.
There is no bad pace for this road. The only wrong way to do it is to rush. Let faster drivers pass at the pullouts, stop at every turnout that catches your eye, and give yourself permission to linger.
Best Time to Go
The Hilo side of the Big Island is the rainy side, and the Hamakua Coast earns its rainforest honestly. Short showers are normal year round, and the wettest months run roughly from November through March. But do not let the rain stop you. The rain is what makes this place green, and the waterfalls run best after it.
Mornings tend to be calmest and clearest, with clouds building over the mountains by afternoon. If you want the best light for photos and the best chance of dry trails, go early.
There is no bad season for the drive itself. It is open year round and never requires reservations. Just check the weather before you go, because heavy rain can bring mudslide debris onto the road, and flash flooding is possible near streams.
Driving Tips for the Old Highway
A little preparation makes this drive much more enjoyable:
Slow down. Twenty miles per hour is the right speed. The road rewards slow driving and punishes fast driving.
Bring a rain jacket. Showers arrive fast and pass fast. A light jacket keeps you comfortable at every stop.
Wear grippy shoes. Trails, boardwalks, and rocks are slippery when wet, which is often. Flip-flops are a bad idea here.
Fill up in Hilo. There are no gas stations, stores, or restaurants along the 4 miles. Bring water and snacks.
Yield to locals. This is a residential road. Pull over to let faster local traffic pass, and never park in a way that blocks the road or a driveway.
Headlights on in rain. Visibility drops fast in tropical downpours. It is simple courtesy and simple safety.
Combining the Drive With a Hamakua Coast Day
The Pepeekeo Scenic Drive is a perfect anchor for a full day on the Hilo side. Here is how the day can flow:
Start in Hilo with Rainbow Falls in the morning light. Head north on Highway 19 and turn onto the scenic drive between mile markers 7 and 8. Take your time through the rainforest, stop at Onomea Bay, and spend an hour or two at the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. Continue north to Akaka Falls State Park for the big waterfall finale, then return to Hilo for dinner.
If you are building a longer itinerary, this day fits naturally into a visit to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on another day, since both are easy reaches from a Hilo base. Many first-time visitors split their Big Island time between the Hilo side and the Kona side, and the scenic drive is one of the best reasons to give Hilo its due.
For travelers who love getting out on foot, the Hamakua Coast pairs well with outdoor adventures across Hawaii, from waterfall hikes to coastal walks.
See the Drive on Video
Frequently Asked Questions
How long is the Pepeekeo Scenic Drive?
About 4 miles, along the Old Mamalahoa Highway between mile markers 7 and 11 on Highway 19 north of Hilo. The drive takes 15 to 20 minutes without stops, or one to two hours with stops.
Is the road safe to drive?
Yes, for careful drivers. It is narrow and winding with blind curves, but the surface is paved. Drive slowly, yield to oncoming traffic at narrow spots, and avoid it during severe storms when debris can wash onto the road.
Do I need a 4WD vehicle?
No. Any standard rental car handles the paved road fine. The key is driving slowly, not ground clearance.
Is there an entrance fee?
The drive itself is free. The Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden charges admission. Nearby state parks like Akaka Falls have their own parking fees.
Can you swim at Onomea Bay?
No, and you should not try. The currents and surf at Onomea Bay are dangerous. There are no lifeguards and no safe entry points. Enjoy the bay from the shoreline.
What is the road also called?
The same 4-mile stretch is called the Pepeekeo Scenic Drive, the Onomea Scenic Drive, the Four-Mile Scenic Route, and the Old Mamalahoa Highway. They are all the same road.
A Drive Worth Slowing Down For
The Pepeekeo Scenic Drive is not the biggest attraction on the Big Island, and that is exactly its charm. It is a quiet, green, four-mile reminder that Hawaii’s beauty is not only in the famous waterfalls and beaches, but in the in-between places, the old roads that the world forgot to hurry past. Take the turn. Drive slow. You will be glad you did.
